Addressing Common Skincare Needs

Master esthetician Christine Heathman, CME, LMT, has practiced with the medical profession for more than 25 years. The CEO/president of GlyMed Plus, Inc. has authored several educational manuals and travels extensively to lecture on progressive skincare worldwide. Recently she sat down with Mia to address commonly asked skincare questions.

Mia: How are facial hydrators and moisturizers beneficial for preventing wrinkles?

Heathman: The lipids of the epidermis play a vital role in healthy skin and help regulate natural water loss. Healthy skin cells can only be produced in a water environment, resulting in healthier skin.

There are two major moisture components the skin requires: No. 1 is hyaluronic acid. Aging skin loses hyaluronic acid daily, which is an essential intercellular component to maintain skin hydration. No. 2 is the critical ceramides—the important skinidentical lipid—juxtaposing hyaluronic acid, that together reduce wrinkles and elevate the correct level of hydration the skin demands.

These components are native to our skin, and when lost, the skin wrinkles. To maintain the highest level of hydration for the skin, always use hyaluronic acid and ceramides together, then seal in the moisture with an antioxidant moisture cream. Hyaluronic acid should never be less than 10 percent to be effective, and ceramides must be human-identical.

Mia: How do topical antioxidants protect skin?

Heathman: Topical antioxidants act as armor, protecting the skin and preventing cellular and tissue damage. Antioxidants neutralize damaging free radicals. For instance, vitamin E, a lipid-soluble vitamin, defends the cell against lipid peroxidation—rancidity of the membrane—and increases SPF protection. Water-soluble vitamin C acts primarily in the cellular fluid. Alpha lipoic acid, both water- and lipid-soluble, is up to 400 times stronger than most antioxidants. Certain antioxidant enzymes are produced within the body. The most commonly recognized of these naturally occurring antioxidants is superoxide dismutase [SOD], a strong UV neutralizer. Always look for both water- and lipid-soluble antioxidant ingredients in your skincare, and know the origin. Natural antioxidants are superior. Avoid chemical antioxidants.

Mia: What are AHAs, and how do they improve skin?

Heathman: AHAs are natural fruit acids classified by molecular weight as glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, etc., used in skincare products and professional peels for aging, acne, pigmentation and other skin disorders. These natural wonders provide smoother, brighter and healthier skin.

AHAs remove the micro-thin damaged layer, increase activity of lazy skin cells, boost internal skin moisture, remove transient pigmentation and help repair photodamaged skin. AHAs are used to treat fine superficial wrinkling, dryness, acne and rough, dry skin. I prefer lactic acid, a milk extract, because it has natural moisturizing factors [NMFs] and is the most compatible with the skin. Ask your esthetician about having a series of lactic acid peels to improve the youthful look of your skin.